|
_skates.htm_cmp_zero110_vbtn.gif)
.gif)
| |
Technical Stuff
Boot Care & Sizing
Riedell Quad Speed Boots
(USA
Manufactured - Styles with numbers, ie
Riedell 911, Riedell 395):
These boots are all sized for men. The width is similiar to medium width (D)
shoes in finer shoe stores.
In general,
ladies need to order one size smaller than their shoe size for sizes 7 and up.
Remove the
insole from a pair of men's dress shoes that fit you well and measure the
longest distance from end to end. Order the skate size that comes the closest to
matching your measurement. Please consider the shape of the toe area. If you use
an athletic shoe, you may need a larger size.
"Size -
Insole Length"
1 -
2 -
3 -
4 - 9 1/2"
4.5 -
5 - 9 5/8"
5.5 - 10 1/4"
6 - 10 3/8"
6.5 - 10 1/2"
7 - 10 5/8"
7.5 - 10 3/4"
8 - 10 7/8"
8.5 - 11 1/8"
9 - 11 3/8"
9.5 - 11 1/2"
10 - 11 5/8"
10.5 - 11 3/4"
11 - 11 7/8"
11.5 - 12"
12 - 12 1/8"
12.5 - 12 1/4"
13 - 12 3/8
14 -
Riedell Lynx
These boots are sized for men. The width is similiar to medium width (D) shoes
in finer shoe stores.
In general, ladies need to order one size smaller than their shoe size for sizes
7 and up.
Remove the
insole from a pair of men's dress shoes that fit you well and measure the
longest distance from end to end. Order the skate size that comes the closest to
matching your measurement. Please consider the shape of the toe area. If you use
an athletic shoe, you may need a larger size.
"Size - Insole
Length"
1 - 8 5/16"
2 - 8 5/8"
3 - 9"
4 - 9 1/4"
5 - 9 5/8"
6 - 10"
7 - 10 3/8"
8 - 10 5/8"
9 - 11 3/8"
9.5 - 11"
10 - 11 1/4
11 - 11 5/8"
12 - 12"
13 - 12 1/4"
14 - 12 5/8"
Does
NOT apply for Speed Boots
Please note
that these sizing instructions are for artistic skaters and will put your toes
touching the end of the boots. If you like more room, go up 1/2 - 1 size.
Length:
Stand on a sheet of paper
and keeping a black pen vertical, trace around your foot (with the socks you
wear to skate.) Measure from the back of the foot at the center of the heel to
the tip of the longest toe of the largest foot.
Width:
Both feet should be measured in the SITTING POSITION. Using a
tape measure, measure the circumference of the widest portion of the ball of the
foot. Remember to pull the tape snugly. It should be noted that extra care be
used when measuring the circumference of the ball of the foot. Once the
measurement is noted, use the width guide to determine correct boot width.
Men's boots are
not made on a combination last; a medium width is a medium ball and a medium
heel.
Narrow Width =
A
Medium width = C
Wide Width = EE
After
receiving heat moldable Riedell boots:
Put your fist inside the boot in the heel/ankle area and punch around (like you
are angry with the boot) until it softens. Next place your foot in the boot
while sitting - tap your heel on the floor to "seat" the heel in the heel cup.
Once your heel is snug in the cup, lace the boots up firmly. Keep them on for
about 30 minutes (in front of the TV is good ).
This should make the boots fit perfectly.
All Riedell
boots designated with the "HEAT MOLDABLE CONSTRUCTION" symbol are able to be
heat molded to the foot. The process is simple, however caution is suggested.
Artistic boots can use a heat gun, oven, or a hair dryer to form the boot while
the quad and inline skates should use a heat gun only -no oven heating. The
materials used in the construction process are laminated with heat sensitive
adhesive cement. The best way for boot adjustment is to heat the boot with a
heat gun or hair dryer in the area to be adjusted. The boot is then put on a
boot press or stretching machine to push out the trouble area. This process is
suggested for areas of the foot such as bunions, ball joint areas, anklebones,
navicular bones, heel spurs, etc. Be careful not to over heat the boot as this
can cause the leather to burn or delamination of the soles and uppers. If
heating in a boot oven, do not exceed temperature of 180 - 200 degrees F with
length of heating time not to exceed 4-5 minutes
Riedell
Men's Art Boots
Please note that these
sizing instructions are for artistic skaters and will put your toes touching the
end of the boots. If you like more room, go up 1/2 - 1 size.
Ladies boots that are not
offered in widths are B width.
Length:
Stand on a sheet of paper and keeping a black
pen vertical, trace around your foot (with the socks you wear to skate.) Measure
from the back of the foot at the center of the heel to the tip of the longest
toe of the largest foot.
Width:
Both feet should be measured in the SITTING POSITION. Using a tape
measure, measure the circumference of the widest portion of the ball of the
foot. Remember to pull the tape snugly. It should be noted that extra care be
used when measuring the circumference of the ball of the foot. Once the
measurement is noted, use the width guide to determine correct boot width.
Models 220, 297, 355 & 375 are made on a
combination last, meaning a B width is B ball with an A heel. The heel is one
size narrower than the ball. Different combinations are available.
Ladies boots without widths
listed are B width.
After receiving heat moldable Riedell boots:
Put your fist inside the boot in the heel/ankle area and punch around (like you
are angry with the boot) until it softens. Next place your foot in the boot
while sitting - tap your heel on the floor to "seat" the heel in the heel cup.
Once your heel is snug in the cup, lace the boots up firmly. Keep them on for
about 30 minutes (in front of the TV is good ).
This should make the boots fit perfectly.
All Riedell boots
designated with the "HEAT MOLDABLE CONSTRUCTION" symbol are able to be heat
molded to the foot. The process is simple, however caution is suggested.
Artistic boots can use a heat gun, oven, or a hair dryer to form the boot while
the quad and inline skates should use a heat gun only -no oven heating. The
materials used in the construction process are laminated with heat sensitive
adhesive cement. The best way for boot adjustment is to heat the boot with a
heat gun or hair dryer in the area to be adjusted. The boot is then put on a
boot press or stretching machine to push out the trouble area. This process is
suggested for areas of the foot such as bunions, ball joint areas, anklebones,
navicular bones, heel spurs, etc. Be careful not to over heat the boot as this
can cause the leather to burn or delamination of the soles and uppers. If
heating in a boot oven, do not exceed temperature of 180 - 200 degrees F with
length of heating time not to exceed 4-5 minutes.
Riedell Ladies Art Boots
Does
NOT apply for Speed Boots
Please note
that these sizing instructions are for artistic skaters and will put the toes
touching the end of the boots.
For more room, go up 1/2 - 1 size.
Length:
Stand on a sheet of paper
and keeping a black pen vertical, trace around your foot (with the socks you
wear to skate.) Measure from the back of the foot at the center of the heel to
the tip of the longest toe of the largest foot.
Width:
Both feet should be measured in the SITTING POSITION. Using a
tape measure, measure the circumference of the widest portion of the ball of the
foot. Remember to pull the tape snugly. It should be noted that extra care be
used when measuring the circumference of the ball of the foot. Once the
measurement is noted, use the width guide to determine correct boot width.
White and black
boots ARE made on the same patterns and lasts (ie a junior black boot fits
exactly the same as the white).
After
receiving heat moldable Riedell boots:
Put your fist
inside the boot in the heel/ankle area and punch around (like you are angry with
the boot) until it softens. Next place your foot in the boot while sitting - tap
your heel on the floor to "seat" the heel in the heel cup. Once your heel is
snug in the cup, lace the boots up firmly. Keep them on for about 30 minutes (in
front of the TV is good ).
This should make the boots fit perfectly.
All Riedell
boots designated with the "HEAT MOLDABLE CONSTRUCTION" symbol are able to be
heat molded to the foot. The process is simple, however caution is suggested.
Artistic boots can use a heat gun, oven, or a hair dryer to form the boot while
the quad and inline skates should use a heat gun only -no oven heating. The
materials used in the construction process are laminated with heat sensitive
adhesive cement. The best way for boot adjustment is to heat the boot with a
heat gun or hair dryer in the area to be adjusted. The boot is then put on a
boot press or stretching machine to push out the trouble area. This process is
suggested for areas of the foot such as bunions, ball joint areas, anklebones,
navicular bones, heel spurs, etc. Be careful not to over heat the boot as this
can cause the leather to burn or delamination of the soles and uppers. If
heating in a boot oven, do not exceed temperature of 180 - 200 degrees F with
length of heating time not to exceed 4-5 minutes.
|
Care Counts
Four factors generally
determining how long boots will last: Skating level, skater size and
weight, type of boot and most importantly, maintenance and care of boots.
If properly cared for, the life of a boot can be dramatically prolonged to
maintain the skate's original comfort and performance. For handcrafted
leather boots, it is essential that care be given after every use best
preserve the condition of the skate from the time of purchase. Premature
breakdown caused by material deterioration is the biggest cause of boot
wear. Leather deterioration as a result of chemical and thermal forcers
produced by the feet entering and corroding the leather.
Perspiration = Deterioration
When boots are skated on for an extended period of time, they often become
wet from perspiration on the inside lining. Composed of 98% moisture and
2% salts and acids, perspiration is a central element in boot corrosion.
The foot produces and carries more bacteria that any other part of the
body. Bacteria consumes protien, and since leather is 98% protein, it also
eats boots. To prevent these different types of deterioration,
perspiration should be wiped from the inside and outside of boots after
every use.
Save the Leather
It is often
necessary to loosen laces on the boots and pull the tongue forward to
allow the boots to dry at room temperature. When wet skates are stored in
skate bags or lockers, they quickly become victims of mold, mildew and
rotting leather. The routine use of leather protectants will help keep
leather looking and feeling like new. Riedell recommends using Silicone
Protectant to prevent moisture absorption by linings, Sno Seal to keep
heels and soles from weakening, and Lexol® to restore and condition
leather uppers. After protectants have dried, using Shoe Finish helps
bring back the original color and shine of the boot. |
|
|
|
Proper
Fitting of Riedell Boots |
Identifying Indicators of Misfit Boots
With proper
understanding of boot fitting, it is relatively easy to determine if a
boot is misfit. Such determination can be made when a boot is new, but as
the boot is worn, such indicators usually become much more evident. The
following indicators may assist with determining proper boot fit. |
|
A. Ball area and throat of the
boot |
|
An
extremely critical area to watch is the throat and ball area of the boots.
1. If the lacing pattern is drawing too close together or buckling of the
eye stay area occurs when the boot is laced firmly on the skater, two
possibilities exist:
a. The boot is too long for the skater.
b. The boot is too wide for the skater.
2. If the lacing pattern is extremely wide, or the ball and throat area is
too wide apart, the reverse situation may exist.
a. The boot length is too short.
b. The boot width is too narrow.
In this situation, usually, the skater will complain of pinching or
discomfort. Proper lacing in the throat area should be no closer together
when the boot is laced snugly on the skater than the normal width of the
throat of the unlaced boot.
3. If the lacing pattern is too close when laces are pulled snugly, the
following may result:
a. The skater will not obtain a snug fit, particularly after the boot is
used, as the boot stretches to a certain degree when broken in.
b. The skater will experience a lack of boot support.
c. Foot slippage will occur resulting in possible blisters and/or
discomfort.
d. Poor skating performance.
e. Premature skate breakdown. |
|
B. Heel or ankle area |
|
The
second primary area of concern is the heel and/or ankle area. Remember
that the majority of a boot's support is obtained from the counters and
back quarters of the boot. If those areas are not fit snugly, heel
slippage may result causing:
1. Blisters and/or foot irritations.
2. Loss of structured support affecting performance.
3. Premature skate breakdown
As with the throat
area, the lacing pattern of the entire boot should be uniform. If the
lacing pattern of the instep and ankle area is too close together, the
boot may be too wide or too long. An excellent indicator is excessive heel
slippage. If that results, all of the above listed problems will occur. If
the lacing pattern is excessively wide, the boot may be too narrow or too
short, once again the skater will usually complain of discomfort.
The majority of misfit
boots is usually caused by selecting a boot that is too wide for the
skater rather than too narrow for the skater. It is suggested that the
boot be fit as snug as possible in width without pinching. Remember, it is
always better to adapt any particular spot on a boot, with the aid of a
boot press or a ball and ring device than to go wider over the entire boot
just to accommodate a particular area of the foot.
When determining
proper or improper fit of a used boot, the examination of the laces and
the footbed can provide valuable information on the boot fit. Usually the
laces will stain or mark which will indicate where they were pulled snug.
In this way, you can re-lace the boot without the skater and determine the
lacing pattern of the boot.
The footbed will also
stain in use and show you exactly how the foot is fit in the skate.
Indication of foot slippage can be found by the staining or imprint of the
toes on the footbed. The darker or more dominate stain is caused by the
weight of the foot and fit in length can be easily determined. The light
edge stains on the footbed will indicate foot slippage, and the total
impression of the little toe on the footbed is an excellent indication of
the boot being too wide.
Again, the vast
majority of misfit boots is caused by oversizing. If undersizing occurs,
adjustment can be made with the use of a boot press or a ball and ring
device. Unless it is the skater's preference, undersizing seldom occurs
due to the skater's immediate discomfort or pinching. However as with
oversizing, the same indicators of laces and footbeds can be used to make
the determination on undersizing a boot. |
|
 Heat
Moldable
|
|
All
Riedell boots designated with the "HEAT MOLDABLE CONSTRUCTION" symbol are
able to be heat molded to the foot. The process is simple, however caution
is suggested. Artistic boots can use a heat gun, oven, or a hair dryer to
form the boot while the quad and inline skates should use a heat gun only
-no oven heating. The materials used in the construction process
are laminated with heat sensitive adhesive cement. The best way for boot
adjustment is to heat the boot with a heat gun or hair dryer in the area
to be adjusted. The boot is then put on a boot press or stretching machine
to push out the trouble area. This process is suggested for areas of the
foot such as bunions, ball joint areas, anklebones, navicular bones, heel
spurs, etc. Be careful not to over heat the boot as this can cause the
leather to burn or delamination of the soles and uppers. If heating in a
boot oven, do not exceed temperature of 180 - 200 degrees F with length of
heating time not to exceed 4-5 minutes. |
Boot Mounting
This diagram gives the end
result. All wheels are equal distance on both sides of the heel and
ball of the boot.
Plate center line should be mounted on center line of the foot with axle
falling across ball of foot and center of wheel.
Skates are designed on center line flexibility. If mounted, other than above,
flexibility will decrease.
Quads: Indoor vs Outdoor
Grip (or tread) is what
puts speed in "Speed Skates". It isn't that you must go fast, you just can go
faster indoors with Speed wheels. Firmer Speed wheels are also great for
Jamskating.
Artistic and dance wheels are the kind we all used growing up. The softer ones
(recreational) are the same range of hardness as the speed wheels, but do not
have the treads for gripping. Since they do not grip the floor, you can do more
of the old-fashioned dance steps (free-style) and skate average speed around a
rink. The harder wheels will slide much easier and are used for artistic and
figure skating.
Art and Speed wheels used outdoors give a bumpier "ride" and tend to slide when
you hit obstructions. The wheels chip easily and do not last very long.
Outdoor wheels are softer. They give when you hit pebbles & cracks. They are OK
indoors when you are skating recreationally (a little "grippier") but not good
for dancing. The softness gives you the grip you need for speed and balance
outdoors.
The only way wheels will hurt the rink floor is if you manage to get something
imbedded in one of them while outside. You can easily check your wheels before
skating indoors.
Several of our rink skaters have 2 sets of wheels and bearings so they can
quickly change out their wheels if they want to skate outdoors (or in a parade.)
One problem with a plastic plate outdoors: if you hit a curb with your plate, or
jump off of curbs & steps, anything of that nature might damage your plate.
Also, since the roadbed & sidewalks are not smooth, eventually the pivot insert
(a piece between the truck and the plate used to prevent your trucks from
wobbling) will wear out. They can be replaced and cost about $1.00 each. But
also, the plate will wear out in this area if the pivot inserts aren't changed
as soon as the truck begins to wobble. (Trucks will also wobble & wear out the
inserts, a reverse problem, if you do not tighten them regularly. Your skate key
is used to tighten trucks.)
Metal plates will last almost forever.
Wheel Types: Indoors vs Outdoors
Outdoor wheels are softer
than indoor wheels and do not have grip on them. Grip (or tread) is what puts
speed in "Speed Skates". It isn't that you must go fast, you just can go faster
indoors with Speed wheels. Speed wheels are also great for Jamskating. (
www.jamskate.com & www.breaksk8.com .) Speed wheels are OK outside but you get a
bumpier "ride".
Artistic and dance wheels are the kind we all used growing up. They do not grip
the floor so you can do more of the old-fashioned dance steps and just skate
average speed around a rink. They are not good for outside at all - they don't
give.
Outdoor wheels, as I said, are softer. They give when you hit pebbles & cracks.
They are OK indoors - almost like the artistic wheels when you are just skating
(a little faster) but not good for dancing at all. The softness gives you the
grip you need for speed outdoors.
None of the wheels will cause you to injure yourself if you use them in a
different way than suggested. The only way indoor wheels will hurt the floor is
if you manage to get something imbedded in one of them while outside. You can
easily check your wheels before skating indoors.
Several of our skaters have 2 sets of wheels and bearings so they can quickly
change out their wheels if they want to skate outdoors (or in a parade.)
One problem with a plastic plate outdoors: if you hit a curb with your plate, or
jump off of curbs & steps, anything of that nature might damage your plate.
Also, since the roadbed & sidewalks are not smooth, eventually the pivot insert
(a piece between the truck and the plate used to prevent your trucks from
wobbling) will wear out. They can be replaced and cost about $1.00 each. But
also, the plate will wear out in this area if the pivot inserts aren't changed
as soon as the truck begins to wobble. Trucks will also wobble & wear out the
inserts, a reverse problem, if you do not tighten them regularly. Your skate key
is used to tighten trucks. Metal plates will last almost forever.
Quads: Durometer
(Hardness) Speed Wheels
General Rule of
Thumb for Speed Wheels
92A-94A -
Grip - Speed & Race
95A-96A - Firm - All Around Performance
97A Up - Extra Firm - Dance
Grip
"Helium - 64mm - 83A"
"Fugitive Red Grip "
"Power - Red Grip"
"Shaman - Red Grip"
"Power Plus - 92A - Red"
"Witch Doctor Blue - 93A - Grip"
"Cannibal - 93A - Blue"
"Zodiac - 93A - Blue Grip, Thin Profile"
Firm
"Shaman - Green Firm"
"Fugitive Purple Firm "
"Power - Yellow Firm"
"Speed Ray - Red Firm"
"Devil Ray - Red Firm"
"X-Ray - 95A"
"Clawz 95A"
"Cosmic - 95A"
"Witch Doctor Orange - 95A - Orange"
"Cannibal - 95A - Orange"
"Power Plus - 95A - Purple"
"Hip Hop - 96A"
"Zoom - 96A"
"T-Bones - 96A"
"Twister - 96A"
"50/50 - 96A"
"Zodiac - 96A - Green, Thin Profile"
"Hyperlicious - 96A"
"Freedom - 96A"
Extra Frim
"Fugitive Green X Firm"
"Devil Ray - Green Extra Firm"
"Speed Ray - Green Extra Firm"
"Power Plus - 97A - Green"
"Snapper - 97A - Pink"
"Blast - 98A"
"Dualie 98A"
Quads: Durometer
(Hardness) Outdoor Wheels
"RoadRider"
"Rollo - 78A"
"RC Aerobic - 85A"
"Motion - 78A"
"Route - 78A"
"Radar - 78A"
"Cruise - 78A"
"Bounce - 80A"
"Hydrogen - 80A"
"Helium - 83A"
"Cruiser Light Up - 80A"
Quads: Durometer (Hardness)
Recreational & Artistic Wheels
? - Fomac Premier
92A - Fox
92A - Marlin
92A - Grease
95A - Grease
95A - Panther 95A - Pacesetter
95A - Fame
95A - SuperStar
95A - Marlin
96A - RC Medallion Plus
97A - Roller Bones
97A - Grease
97A - Mustang
97A - Leopard
97A - Boxer
97A? - All American Plus
97A - Bones Artistic
98A - Bones Artistic
98A - Spirit
98A - Labeda Elegant
98A - Labeda Featherweight
99A - RC Medallion
100A - Fomac Freestyle
100A - Labeda Featherweight
100A - Jazz
101A - Spirit
101A - Labeda Elegant
101A - Bones Artistic
101A - Bones Elite
101A - Bones Super Elite
103A - Bones Elite
103A - Bones Super Elite
Bearings: ABEC or Skate Rated
From
BonesBearings.com
ABEC vs. Skate Rated™ By George A. Powell
We are often asked, What ABEC rating are your bearings? The answer is that Bones
Bearings are Skate Rated™ not ABEC rated.
Bones Bearings are the skate industry leader and favorite choice of professional
skaters, and have been since their development in 1983. During the past 18
years, Bones Swiss have become legendary because of their superior speed
quality, and longevity. Even though Bones Swiss are the top rated bearing in
skating, we don’t give them an ABEC rating. There is a good reason for this...
thank you for asking.
The ABEC rating system has been around for the last 35 years. The purpose of the
ABEC committee (Annular Bearing Engineers Committee) is not to test every
manufacturer’s bearings and proclaim them good or bad, but to establish
dimensions, tolerances, geometry, and noise standards for bearings in an attempt
to aid industrial bearing manufacturers and users in the production, comparison
and selection of bearings for general applications. However, since every bearing
is used in a different manner and environment, bearings should be redesigned or
“customized” for special uses (like skating). The ABEC rating system is not
intended to be the only criteria used for selecting bearings for use in
specialized applications like skating. It is only one of the tools a bearing
designer can use if it is appropriate for the application.
The ABEC rating system includes grades 1,3,5,7, and 9. The higher the ABEC
rating, the tighter the tolerances are, making the bearing a more precision
part. High precision and small tolerances are required for bearings to
function at very high RPM, in products like high speed routers that must spin at
20 to 30,000 RPM. In an application like this, an ABEC - 7 or 9 bearing rating
may be appropriate. However, a skateboard with 54mm wheels turning 20,000 RPM
will be traveling about 127 MPH! Since virtually all skating is done under 30
MPH, the realistic maximum RPM your skate bearings will see is about 4700 RPM
and probably 90% of skating occurs under 2000 RPM. Thus, very high precision is
not required at skating speeds.
The dimensions and tolerances controlled by the ABEC standards include the
diameters and widths of the raceways, their shapes to some extent and the
smoothness of the running surfaces. The ABEC rating system ignores side loading,
impact resistance, materials selection and grade, appropriateness of
lubrication, ball retainer type, grade of ball, the clearance between the balls
and the races, installation requirements, and the need for maintenance and
cleaning. All these bearing design requirements are very important to the
performance of your skate bearing, even though the ABEC rating says nothing
about them.
From our testing of bearings and our 18 years of experience designing bearings
for skating, we know that there can be a HUGE difference between the performance
of two bearings that both have the same ABEC rating. Indeed, we have found that
in many cases, bearings with high ABEC ratings don’t perform as well as others
with lower ABEC ratings in a skate wheel. Thus, reliance on ABEC ratings alone
can lead skaters and dealers to choose a bad bearing for skating over a good
bearing for skating. That is why we don’t use the ABEC rating system at all. In
essence, the ABEC rating is irrelevant to the performance of a skate bearing
when it is used as the sole criteria for selection.
To explain this another way, choosing an ABEC-7 or 9 bearing for skating would
be like choosing an Indy car to race in the “Baja 500” because Indy cars can go
fast and are of high precision. It isn’t that the Indy car isn’t a good piece of
equipment, just that it is not designed for off road use and so it would quickly
fail when its suspension breaks and its engine clogs with dirt.
Bones Bearings out perform all other bearings because we went to the trouble to
skate rate Bones Swiss™ and Bones REDS™, not just select an ABEC rated
industrial bearing and put a customized plastic shield on it. Bones have been
completely redesigned for skating from the ground up and are built to Bones
specifications that include Skate Rated components, lubricants, tolerances and
clearances.
Bones’ component parts are engineered and tested to withstand the
high impacts of hard landings, the high side loads of turning, and (to the
extent possible) the dirt of skate environments. As a result, Bones roll faster
and last longer than other bearings. To merely give Bones an ABEC rating would
be to ignore all the improvements we have engineered into Bones and the
resulting difference between Bones and standard ABEC rated bearings. Since there
is no appropriate ABEC rating that will reflect the superior quality of Bones
Bearings, we have given them their own rating, Skate Rating, to let you know
that Bones are special and made just for skaters like you, not for electric
motors.
Bearings: Ratings
From: seskate.com
ABEC RATINGS
About this section:
A lot of our customers are confused about what an ABEC rating means. The
following info is from an American bearing company that manufactures ABEC rated
bearings and non-ABEC rated bearings.
What is ABEC?
ABEC stands for Annular Bearing Engineers' Committee. This committee works to
determine the standards for bearings for the Anti-Friction Bearing Manufacturers
Association (AFBMA).
The ABEC scale classifies different accuracy and tolerance ranges for bearings.
The first column of this table lists the five ratings in the ABEC scale.
ABEC Ratings, ISO Class:
ABEC1, Class 0
ABEC3, Class 6
ABEC5, Class 5
ABEC7, Class 4
ABEC9, Class 2
The ABEC rating of a bearing is determined by the following (for a 608 size
bearing):
1. How close the bore is to 8mm in microns
2. How close the outer diameter is to 22 in microns
3. How close the width is to 7mm in microns
4. The rotating accuracy in microns
The second column of the table lists the corresponding tolerance classes as
defined by ISO, the International Organization for Standardization. Both systems
are widely used in the bearing industry but ABEC has been adopted by skate
manufacturers.
Does ABEC affect the speed of your skates?
No. Not unless you are skating at 330 mph. That's based on a 608 bearing
limiting speed of 32,000 rpm. Only in extremely high speed applications like
ultra high speed motors and precision measuring instruments can bearings above
ABEC 1 affect performance. Regardless of how fast you plan to go, speed is
affected first and foremost by the choice of lubricant.
If we're going to talk about tolerances, the fit of your wheels and axles have a
much greater effect on performance than ABEC rating. Wheels and axles for inline
skates have extremely loose fits that allow you to press the bearings into the
wheel by hand. This masks the benefits of a higher precision bearing by allowing
it to slip on the axle or in the wheel. Slippage between the mating parts
results in energy loss. Lost energy is lost speed.
Bearings: Super 6 Swiss
About Super
Swiss 6
By George A. Powell
Bones Swiss
bearings have the best reputation in the skateboard industry, and have had this
honor for the past 17 years because of their performance and quality. Everyone
who rides Swiss knows how fast they are, and most also comment on how long they
last, typically several times as long as low cost bearings. When you are number
one, it is hard to do better since you have already done your best to get there.
Thus, over the years, we have only adjusted clearances, improved ball retainer
materials, shield materials and lubricants to make Bones Swiss incrementally
better, but have never modified the basic design of the bearing... until now.
Bones Super Swiss 6 Ball bearings (SS6) are fundamentally different from our
standard 7 ball Bones Swiss. Super Swiss have 6 balls instead of 7 as you might
expect, but the 6 balls are 20% larger in diameter than the balls used in 7 ball
Swiss are. The reason we use 6 balls instead of 7 of the larger balls is also
pretty simple, we can’t fit 7 of the larger balls into the size constraints of
the 608 bearing.
The major advantage of using larger balls is that they roll slower, creating
less friction at the same wheel RPM. Some additional benefits we discovered only
after skating our test bearings were even more interesting than the modest
decrease in rolling friction, however. The Super Swiss 6 ball turns out to:
Have a higher top speed (because the balls don’t have to turn so fast)
Accelerate faster (because the races are thinner and there is one less ball)
Roll farther (because of the reduced friction and ball rotation speed) Last
longer because it is STRONGER! Skaters who use Bones Swiss do so because they
want the very best equipment they can get and they know the difference between
ordinary and exceptional. Check out our bearing team, it is a who’s who of top
skaters and we are proud to be associated with each one of them. What’s more,
each one has come to us and asked to be sponsored because they already used
Bones Swiss to help them skate their best.
The feedback we get from these great skaters is very positive, and we only heard
of one area we felt we could improve in, and that was impact strength. These
guys (and girls) skate so hard and go so high that sometimes they broke a
bearing when they or their board landed. The trend towards harder and harder,
smaller and smaller wheels seems to have aggravated this somewhat in the past
few years and so we started testing the 6 ball bearing. Those who have been able
to test various versions of our developmental bearings have all agreed on one
thing, they are fantastic bearings. They are faster, quicker and stronger.
Given the very positive feedback from our team and the results of our lab
testing, we felt we needed to give these bearings a new name to reflect their
superior performance. Super Swiss 6 ball may not be the shortest name ever, but
this name does indicate what you will discover for yourself when you ride
them... they are Super. Perhaps even more important to skaters is that the price
differential for this significant increase in performance and durability is
quite small. So if you are a Bones Swiss user or if you have broken bearings in
the past, give our new Super Swiss 6 balls a try and see if they aren’t worth a
few bucks more.
Bearings: Bones
Bearing Maintenance
From BonesBearings.com
Maintaining your Bones® Bearings By George A. Powell
Legendary Bones Bearings are known world wide as the best skate bearings
available. Your bearings are precision made with our special Skate Rated™
components and tolerances to give you the absolute maximum speed, roll and life
possible. The superb quality of the special bearing steels with their
mirror-like super-finish, the removable, non-contact rubber shield, and the low
friction, high speed ball retainer provide unequalled roll and ease of
maintenance. Bones Bearings also come pre-lubricated with Speed Cream™, so they
are ready to roll as fast as possible. When to clean your bearings
Your Bones Bearings are the most accurately manufactured part of your skate with
clearances and tolerances considerably smaller than 1/1000th of an inch. That
means that a piece of hair is thicker than the clearance between the balls and
the raceways inside the bearing, and it will clog it up and slow you down if
your bearing ingests even a hair.
Because you skate outside, through dust, sand, water, mud, etc. your bearings
will eventually get dirty and/or wet. When they are dirty, you will notice that
they don’t spin freely when you flick the wheel and may also notice they are
getting noisy. At this point you have two options: clean your bearings or
replace them. Do not continue to use your bearings if they do not spin freely on
your skate.
WARNING!! If you continue to ride very dirty or unlubricated bearings, you
run the risk of permanently damaging them and/or having them get so hot from the
increased friction caused by the dirt and/or lack of lubrication that they
freeze up. You don’t want to be skating on them if they do, because the wheel
may stop abruptly, causing you to fall and be injured.
Here is the straight scoop we want you to know about skate bearings. If you
clean your bearings every time they get really dirty or wet, they will last
longer than several sets of wheels! If you don’t clean them at all, or wait
until they barely turn before you clean them, they will probably only last as
long as your existing set of wheels do. They could even wear out sooner, if you
ride them through water and sand without cleaning them. So, how long your
bearings last is pretty much up to you.
We have put the best Skate Rated™ steels, plastics, rubber and lubricant
together to make the best skate bearings in the world for you. Now it is up to
you to check your bearings for free spin and low noise every time before and
after you skate to make sure they are operating properly, and to clean them when
they get dirty. By the way, you should clean them after you skate, not just
before you skate, because if there is moisture and dirt in your bearings, you
want to get it out and relubricate your bearings as soon as possible so they
don’t rust. Here is what to do to get maximum performance and life out of your
Bones Bearings. We now offer a Bearing Cleaning Unit to aid you in the cleaning
process. Maintenance Instructions
-
1. Keep your bearings dirt-free, moisture free, and
lubricated. Water will rust your bearings and dirt will destroy the smoothness
of the super finish on your bearing races, increasing friction.
-
2. Clean your bearings when they become dirty or noisy with
the most environmentally friendly cleaner you can find that is suitable for
dissolving oil, grease, and removing dirt from steel and nylon surfaces. We
have tried a number of cleaners and solvents, and many of them can be used
safely if you exercise the proper precautions and care. Citrus base cleaners
usually work, but may leave a slight residue. Solvents are dangerous to use,
but often do a better job of cleaning very dirty bearings. If you use a water
based cleaner or detergent, be sure to dry your bearings immediately and
relubricate them to prevent rust.
-
3. Some solvents we have tested that will do a good job are: Gumout®
carburetor cleaner (found in auto parts stores) is easy to use and cleans
well; kerosene, acetone or lacquer thinner (found in hardware stores) clean
well. All these solvents are very flammable, and should be used with great
care, so be careful and don’t use them around any flame or spark. If you are
using a solvent cleaner, please use rubber gloves, a metal container, in a
safe, well ventilated area. When you are finished, remember to dispose of your
solvent in a safe, ecologically sound manner. It is usually best to clean your
bearings outside, or, if weather prevents this and it is safe to do so, in the
garage if it is well ventilated and safe. Do not put these strong solvents
into glass or plastic containers which might break or melt.
-
4. Do
not add new oil to dirty bearings (without cleaning them first). This will
just cause more dirt to be driven into the bearing, and while it may result in
the wheel spinning a little faster at the moment, the added dirt will also be
destroying your highly polished bearing raceways faster too. Clean your
bearings before you re-lubricate them.
Cleaning Instructions
-
1. Gently remove the non-contact rubber shield with a bent paper
clip. Push the shield out with the end of the bent paper clip from the other
side of the bearing. Slide your tool around the balls and ball retainer
through the crack between the outer race and the ball retainer. (Bones
Bearings come with only one shield so you can do this easily.) The shield
should just pop out when you push on the backside of it. Be careful not to
bend or tear the rubber shield as you do this. Bent shields don’t fit right
and may allow contaminants into the bearing. Don’t use solvents to clean the
rubber shields! These may cause the shields to blister or swell! Just wipe the
shields with a clean, lightly oiled cloth, or use soap and water to clean them
if they are very dirty, then dry them completely with a clean lint free cloth
and recoat them with Speed Cream or a suitable light oil immediately.
-
2. Now press the ball retainer out with the paper clip. Push in
between the balls and do not touch the balls or cupped seats of the ball
retainer that hold the balls. If you try and pry it out from the wrong side,
your tool may slip into where the balls sit and ruin the polished finish in
these cupped areas. This will hinder the roll of the bearing. If you destroy a
ball retainer doing this, replacements may be ordered directly from Skate One
Corp. (In a pinch, you can sometimes rob one from an old Bones bearing of the
same type and get by with it for awhile, but we don’t recommend this because
the ball retainer will be worn already and may not function properly.)
-
3. Soak bearing races, balls, and ball retainers in the cleaning
solution in a metal can or pot. Gently agitate the solution to clean the
bearings thoroughly. Make sure to flush the bearings with clean solution until
the cleaning solution remains clear after agitation.
-
4. Remove bearings and ball retainers from cleaning solution and
dry as soon as possible. We recommend using a can of compressed air to make
sure all the dirt, grease, solvent, cleaners, etc. have left the inner
workings of the bearing and no water or dirt are left.
-
5. Carefully
space the balls evenly between the races and re-assemble the ball retainers
into the bearing, then lubricate your bearings with 2 drops of Speed Cream.
(One drop for ceramic bearings). Put the rubber shields back on, making sure
there are no creases around the inner race. If there are, just run your finger
around it until it is gone. Spin each bearing a couple of revolutions to coat
all the internal surfaces of the bearing with oil and leave a thin coat of oil
on the outside surfaces of the bearing too, to keep it from rusting. Now you
are ready to put the bearings back into the wheels. When you do, be careful
not to push on the inner race or the shield, only on the outer race to avoid
damaging the bearing. High precision bearings like Bones roll their best after
about an hour of use in a clean environment (break in period). If you want
your bearings at their peak prior to a competition or race, we recommend that
you break in your bearings, then clean, re-lubricate and store in a moisture
free container until ready to use. When storing your bearings, be sure that
the outside of the bearings are also covered with Speed Cream, or a light oil
to prevent them from rusting.
If you have any other questions regarding your bearings, please feel free to
contact Bones Bearings at
Toll Free: (800) 288-7528
Phone: (805) 964-1330
Fax: (805) 964-0511.
SIZE CHART
|
6 & Under
Jr. Size Pads
Weight: 45 to 55 lbs.
Height: 47" (3'11") to 48" (4'0")
Deck Size: 6.75" x 26.50" |
7 to 8
Jr. Sized Pads- Sometimes small
Weight: 60 to 65 lbs.
Height: 49" (4'1") to 52" (4'3")
Deck Size: 7" x 28" |
8 to 10
Small Sized Pads
Weight: 65 to 72 lbs.
Height: 52" (4'3") to 55" (4'6")
Deck Size: 7.25" x 29.75" |
11 & Up
Medium Sized Pads
Weight: 73 lbs. & Up
Height: 56" (4'8") & Up
Deck Size: 7.5" x 31.25" |
Enjoy yourself skating!!!
|
